This Shoe Pinches

The world class hub of the footwear industry has hit the dust with thousands on the verge of despair. But the Mayawati regime and the centre cares two hoots

Samarth Pathak Agra, Hardnews

The city of the Taj in western UP is not just famous for the historic monument of love. It is also a hub of the legendary footwear industry of Agra. It is a major centre for footwear in India which dates back to the Mughal era when small artisans and cobblers made crafted mojris and chappals for the royalty and the masses. That art of shoe-making has passed from generation to generation and is preserved in the plethora of cottage units operating from the busy markets of the city.

But faced with the economic slump, these units are now fighting a losing battle for existence. The year 2008 spelt doom for the industry. Many small scale footwear units have shut down, others are on the brink of following suit as the demand for shoes have hit rock bottom and no aid is forthcoming from the government. Recession has hit the industry hard and labourers and small scale units are the worst affected.

Operating mainly from damp, dark, dingy rooms in sub-human working conditions, these ‘sweatshop' units (some in one room workshops) supply nearly 70 per cent of the shoes in India's domestic market. Most of them are owned by families who have been in the business for generations. But rising costs of production and low demands are squeezing them dry, thereby putting the age old art of shoe-making in danger. The situation is so bad that many workers are now changing professions and opting to work as rickshaw-pullers or bonded labourers at construction sites.

"I shut my karkhana (workshop) two months ago because of the recession. It had been operational for nearly 60 years. We were incurring heavy losses, and there was virtually no demand. The recession has wreaked havoc on small firms like ours. We were working at just a quarter of our capacity for four months, and it spelt doom for us. Now I have shut shop and my sons are working in a general store. It is a bad time for the shoe industry," says Om Prakash, owner of a shoe-making unit in Agra.

Facing heavy losses due to the meltdown, the small scale industries have suffered the final blow with the emergence of bigger companies in their markets. Earlier, these larger firms engaged primarily in exports to international markets. Pinched by recession, they have shifted focus to domestic markets, which have pushed the smaller firms to a dead-end.

An official from the Agra Footwear Manufacturers and Exporters Chamber (AFMEC) said, "We have not yet incurred heavy losses. But yes, our profits have significantly reduced. Many in the export businesses are hence considering entering the local markets. This would improve the quality of footwear floating in the markets and also bring in orders for the bigger firms." But the smaller units are crying foul, "This is murder of the footwear cottage industry."

 A small scale footwear firm comprises of a group of seven to fifteen members (usually from the same family). These factories take orders from traders across India and manufacture shoes accordingly. Those working in these units are usually paid on the basis of their work and profit in the business. They do not have fixed wages. Most belong to rural areas near Agra. The workers have to often support large families on meager earnings. Child labour is widespread. Organised exploitation is rampant.